Taprobane Island is located 200 yards off the southern coast of Sri Lanka in the centre of Weligama bay, which in turn is 3 1/2 hours south of the capital of Colombo and 30 minutes south of the provincial capital of Galle, a town designated by the United Nations as a world heritage site.

Access to the island from the coast is usually made by wading through the surf on foot, or by some on elephant or sedan chair! Most visitors arrive in Sri Lanka through the international airport situated 30 minutes to the north of Colombo; and then after a day spent shopping and sightseeing in Colombo proceed to Weligama by motor car or train, both of which hug the west coast shoreline; the journey through coconut plantations, coastal villages markets and long deserted beaches provides an immediate insight into the island of serendipity.

Taprobane Island itself is approximately 2 1/2 acres, is similar in shape to Sri Lanka and is one of the reasons that its original owner gave it the name Taprobane (which was the original Greek name for Ceylon). There is nothing between the island and the south pole, and it is a sight that nobody forgets on turning the corner when coming into Weligama bay. In his book The Reefs of Taprobane, Arthur C. Clarke describes "the scene as being so peaceful and so completely relaxing.. that I managed to escape the tyranny of the typewriter... the equal of San Michele... the place where I learned to wear a sarong." Most guests echo similar sentiments and, to all, it is very much "an isle of dreams", or as Paul Bowles reflected when he was the owner: "an embodiment of the innumerable fantasies that have flitted through my mind since childhood"

History

Taprobane Island as we see it today was created in 1922 by Count de Mauny - Talvande, a gentlemen of leisure, furniture maker and a descendent of one of Napoleon's Generals. In his book The Gardens of Taprobane, he describes his first encounter; "shall I ever forget that morning in September, when, quite by chance I first saw Weligama Bay, and in the centre of it the red granite rock, covered with palms and jungle scrub, rising from the Indian Ocean: an emerald in a setting of pink coral. I swam across the narrow strait, scrambled over rocks and briers, and reached the top of the rock. The view from here was admirable: below me was the Bay outspreading its long arms towards the ocean; until they were lost in the haze of the far distance; the coral reef, sparkling with the diamonds of the spray; the sea, turquoise blue, streaked with amethyst-purple. Beyond, far beyond, the bare horizon; there was nothing between me and the South Pole."

Count de Mauny was to make Taprobane his home for the next 30 years and during his time played host to Kings, Statesmen, Aristocracy, Governors and Magnates; the gardens and neo paladian house becoming a drawing point to all those entranced by beauty.

In his diary, in Febuary 1932, he describes the arrival of H.E. The Governor:

"A burst of cheering rises from four thousand throats. Spectators from all the country-side have gathered along the sands in front of Taprobane; thousands of mutlicoloured stars spangle the sand. Two thousand men, tom-toms, drums and flutes head the march; the dancers come next, wearing grotesque masks; the "fire-eaters" come next, holding their burning brands between their teeth; a hundred torch-bearers follow. Fifty catamarans, transformed into gondolas, junks, miniature men-of-war, all garlanded with festoons of many coloured lights, furrow the Bay and skim past the Island. Songs and native music rises above the slapping clatter of paddles; rockets break the night in columns of fire; the gun booms. The crowd scatters silently in the night, and the Temple bells, in the jungle, peal out the close of the day of full moon."

On his death in Jaffna in the late 1940s, the island became a little neglected until bought by the American writer Paul Bowles, who was equally captivated by its fantasy and who was to own it for 4 years, during this time he wrote the Spider House; it was only on the insistence of his wife that he moved back to Morocco; and once again the island became neglected for many years until a brief period in the 1970s when the son of the painter Balthus held court there and captivated many a young visitor! It was not, however, until 1995 when the present owner moved in, that the process of restoring the island to its heyday was begun, a process which is still continuing.

When is the best time to visit Sri Lanka?

Traditionally, the season is from December to mid May: these are the driest months in the west, south and central part of the country; however in recent years, off season months have been very pleasant too; and during off season months, hotels and beaches tend to be less congested. The Kandy Perehera in August is well worth visiting, and in that month there is a brief respite in the monsoon weather. From December to March the temperature is around 30

How to get to Taprobane

Sri Lankan Air, Emirates, Gulf Air, Cathay Pacific, Thai International and Singapore Airlines all have regular flights to Colombo. We can arrange inland transport from the airport or from a Colombo hotel to Taprobane. We do recommend, however, that you only make the journey in daylight. It is also possible to catch the train from Colombo to Weligama (the journey time of 3 and half hours is about the same as a journey by vehicle). If travelling by Sri Lankan Airlines it is essential to reconfirm your return flight as otherwise it is highly likely to be cancelled.

Health

Unlike its Indian neighbour, Sri Lanka is by comparison a very clean country and most travellers do not suffer in the same way. Most illnesses are more likely to occur from sunstroke and excess alcohol! Good protection from the sun is essential and it is best to buy any lotions at home. It is also better to buy mosquito repellents and post mosquito lotions before you arrive. Mosquito repellent should be applied just before dusk.

Malaria, Hepatitis and Dengue fever do exist in the country, so for those who like to be prudent ask your doctor for information. If travelling with children, a course of antibiotics should also be packed. Taprobane does have a First Aid kit for minor ailments.

Things to pack

Sri Lanka is a very informal country, so jackets are not an essential piece of clothing; so it is unecessary to bring to Taprobane as Paul Bowles did; ten double breasted suits, a cook, maid, manservant and an upright piano. Shorts and a teeshirt are adequate in most places. For gourmet travellers, however, fine marmalade, mustards, cheese, olive oil and vinegar are better brought from home; as in any ex-British colony, Marmite is widely available, as is Vegemite.

It is best to buy Spirits on arrival from the Duty Free shop at Colombo airport. Wine and champagne can be ordered in advance from the sunhouse and delivered to the island.

Food

Our chefs will discuss your needs on a daily basis: Sri Lankan curries, salads, seafood, fusion and western foods are all available.We have never had any complaints in guests being underfed!

Facilities

Taprobane has a swimming pool, seawater rockpool, shaded verandahs, boogie boards, board games, music system (bring your own choice of CDs), library.

Security

Taprobane is situated in the south of the country; it is the area furthest from the Tamil conflict. In addition, the Tigers have never been known to target tourists so guests should not be unduly worried. We employ professional security guards who maintain a 24 hour watch at the main gate. There is a safe in the house where we recommend guests deposit passports, money and valuables. There is no land telephone on Taprobane. Cellular phones do work, however, and those with call roaming facilities should have no problem in making or receiving calls. Emails can be sent and received.

Children

Children are welcome on Taprobane; however, for swimming in the sea, adult supervision is essential.

Shopping

Shopping around Taprobane is limited, there is a main street in Weligama and visits can be arranged to local gem merchants. Most guests prefer to shop in Colombo either at the beginning or the end of their stay.

"You ought to be satisfied; for if you do not accomplish anything else in life, you will have created a thing of beauty, perhaps unique in the world. It is something to be proud of."

...Her grace the Duchess of Sutherland writing to Count de Mauny

"The surroundings-situation, views and atmosphere-being unique, the house had to be unique also. The house is the centre of interest in the picture; the gardens, the sea, the panorama, the distant views, are its light and shadows. It was important to remember that house and gardens were inseparable parts of a whole-and that they could not be separated without spoiling the whole, above all it must not overwhelm the island...after much thought I decided that it must be octagonal: this shape would give eight facades to the house, each with a different aspect and an admirable view. Nothing would be allowed to interfere with the panoramic vista, and anyone standing at the entrance would be able to see one of the finest views of its kind in the world"

...Count de Mauny describing his reason for building not a real house with an interior, but a pavilion which would be a continuation of the landscape outside, and from every part of which there would be multiple views.

The house currently has 5 bedrooms and 5 bathrooms, huge verandahs and balconies and many a secluded spot to get lost in. There are 2 houseboys, a steward, a cook, gardener and 2 uniformed security guards. Local drivers are on hand to take you on any local excursion, shopping trip or sightseeing tour.

"What to do?"

Once on Taprobane, many guests hardly leave the island save to swim around it. The area however does have some interesting sites/ most of which can be done as day trips.

1. Tea Plantations - the area around Galle has quite a few lowland plantations and excursions can be arranged.

2. Old Forts - Galle and Matara have well preserved Dutch Forts and lively markets.

3. Beaches - Unawatuna, Talpe and Merissa are within easy reach. The beaches of Tangalle make a very pleasant day trip.

4. The Stilt Fishermen - sitting like large cranes perched in the sea, these fishermen provide a splendid photo opportunity and are only a few kilometers from Taprobane.

5. Devil Dances - local devil dances are still occasionally performed in the villages inland from Taprobane, ask the staff if any are scheduled during your stay.

6. Diving - can be arranged at Unawatuna, Weligama and Dickwella. For those who want to learn to dive P.A.D.I. courses can be arranged.

7. Surfing - the beaches at Merissa are very good for body surfing. More serious surfing can be found in Hikkaduwa.

8. Adventure Sports - White water rafting, trekking, mountain biking can be arranged through a local company www.adventureslanka.com

9. Overnight trips can be arranged to the National Parks of Yala and Uda Walawe, the tropical rainforest of Sinharajah, or the overnight climb to the dawn from the top of Adams Peak.

10. If there are enough of you, ask the staff to organise a game of fireball hockey on the beach... or just join in a game of cricket with the local teams.

11. Temples and relics - there are a number within easy reach of Taprobane.

12. Dining - if wanting a night out, a good excursion is to go and watch the sunset from the ramparts of Galle Fort and then book for dinner at The Sun House, followed possibly by a nightcap or more at one of the seaside dives at Unawatuna.

13. Antique Shops - the village of Ambalangoda has several antique shops offering Dutch colonial furniture.

Guest Comments

"seems like the invention of an eccentric imagination"

"that huge Count de Mauny desk makes a hopeless wardrobe but by the time you leave it seems quite natural"

"I ask forgiveness for not exclaiming more often or cooing louder"

"As we waded across to the steps of the house,we were speachless.."

"In Taprobane did Geoffrey a stately pleasure dome decree..."

"its memory will be everlasting"

"a triumph of vision, perseverance and generosity"

"nothing will ever match Taprobane for location and character"

"a great marvellous folly"

"perfection in every art consists in the complete accomplishment of its purpose, and in Taprobane it is total"

"it was like sleeping in the sea"

"Thankyou for letting us stay in sauch a beautiful atmisfere" Rachel aged 6

"un endroit et une maison de reve que l'on a la chance d'avoir vue dans la realite"

"the only desert and exclusive island where you do not go mad"

"the reality even surpasses my high expectations"

"the candlelit curry on the verandah will never be forgotten"

"truly the world's most perfect small island"

"Tout etait parfait"

"I never imagined backpacking would be quite such an amazing experience, thankyou, Geoffrey, for exceeding all holiday expectations"

"the problem with Taprobane is that once you arrive you never want to leave"

"A place which usually belongs in heaven...the only bad thing is the expectation for future holidays"

Press Reviews

"live a fairytale" Time magazine

"a hideaway with style" Action Asia

"a stunning place" Lonely Planet Guide

"resembles a 1930's filmset, every island-lover's fantasy" Conde Nast Traveller

"a breezy and magical hideaway" Harpers and Queen

"Taprobane is about as improbable as a mirage" The Weekend Australian