Little Cumbrae Island

The Island of Little Cumbrae extends to 277 hectares (684 acres) or thereabouts and in length is approximately 1.8 miles (2.9 kilometres) and 0.9 miles (1.5 kilometres) at its widest point.

The island is characterised predominantly by steep coastal cliffs and higher inland areas with bluffs which rise steeply in places interspersed with streams, several inland lochs and marshy areas. The highest point of the island is Lighthouse Hill at 121.5 metres (406 feet). As well as the coastal strip of land to the eastern side of the island (the location of the principal development) there is a raised plateau to the western extremity, which includes the lighthouse complex.

The main development on the eastern side of the island consists principally of Wee Cumbrae House, sheltered by a steep escarpment and with spectacular views past the castle keep to the Firth of Clyde and the Ayrshire Coast beyond. On Castle Island, in front of the house, stands the 13th century keep. The original traditional Scottish farmhouse was extended during the First World War with additional alterations made in the 1920s. The property is variously built on one, two and three floors and constructed of stone with pitched slate roofs. The present drawing room was once a byre, and is even supposed to have previously been used as the village inn (at a time when some 54 people lived on the island).

In addition, there are two attractive cottages, together with an adjoining studio flat, former dog kennels, large steading (stable block) and a substantial modern workshop building along the coastal strip. The present jetty (which gives access to the island by sea even at low tide) is the remnant of a stone jetty used for landing coal to fuel the original lighthouse fire. There is a large traditional boathouse and slipway. On the western coast of the island is a former lighthouse complex dating back to 1793, though now no longer in use. The lighthouse and service buildings, together with 3 former lighthouse-keepers’ dwellings within a walled enclosure, enjoy spectacular coastal views and have separate jetty access.

The gardens to Wee Cumbrae House extend principally to the eastern (front) and southern (side) of the main building, which is also extensively surrounded by stone-flagged terraces. Drawings from 1918 show the presence of a tennis lawn to the front of the main house, together with various terraced levels and pathway to the main jetty. To the southern side was a formal rose garden, with a vegetable garden inland to the west. Although much of the original Gertrude Jekyll planting scheme has lapsed, the general layout and planting proposals of the various areas still exist. Whilst one of the original buildings adjoining the cottages has been removed, various sheds and stores still remain as well as a large greenhouse serviced with electricity, water and an automatic ventilation system. This area includes a range of orchard trees including apple, plum and damson.

HISTORY

The Island of Wee Cumbrae, or ‘Vey Cumra’ (pronounced ‘Wee Cumra’), has a long history of human occupation, evidenced by Prehistoric, Bronze and Iron Age archaeological remains. The origin of the name ‘Cumbrae’ may have been derived from the early Celtic inhabitants of the Strathclyde region (the Cymry) or derived from a Gaelic word for shelter or refuge. Others believe it derives from another Gaelic word for ‘a steep coastline rising from the sea. Much of the early occupation of Wee Cumbrae is evidenced by burial mounds or ‘cists’, one of which included the remains of an ancient chieftain warrior found complete with ceremonial sword, helmet and other effects. The island has over a hundred place names of Scots, Gaelic, Danish, Norse and Shetlandic origins, underlying the rich cultural mix of the original inhabitants.

In the 7th Century AD, a nun known as Saint Veya (previously based on Lindisfarne) established a religious cell on the island and there are still vestiges of the ancient ruined chapel of St Bey (alternatively called Santa Vey or Santa Wey). Monk’s Cave (now known as King’s Cave) was used for sheltering from storms and hostile invaders alike.

The castle keep situated on Allimturrail (or Castle Island) is likely to have been built by Walter Stewart who was married to Marjorie, the only daughter of Robert the Bruce. The castle has striking similarities to those at Hunterston and Portencross and each played an important role for warning against invasion as part of a series of beacons down the Clyde coast. The first Royal Charter was signed in the castle in 1375 AD and Robert II may have spent much of his time on the island hunting deer and rabbits.

The Hunters of Hunterston occupied the island until 1515 when the island was passed to the Montgomerys and Earls of Eglington following a dispute over the ownership over falcons with the Crown. In 1663, Archibald Hamilton was imprisoned on the island by the Sixth Earl of Eglington before he was sent to Stirling to be hanged. In revenge for this Oliver Cromwell, who was a friend of Hamilton, had the castle sacked and the building has not been occupied ever since.

In the early 20th century, under the ownership of Evelyn Stuart Parker, a new ‘mansion house’ was created from the original single storey farmhouse, the gardens were laid out to a plan by Gertrude Jekyll, the renowned garden designer, and substantial repairs were undertaken to the castle and the original lighthouse. The original work commenced in 1913, with subsequent alterations made between 1926 and 1929 when the square tower and top floor were added.

Over the years there have been a number of shipwrecks along the shores of Wee Cumbrae, the most notable examples being a brig and a schooner wrecked on the same night in 1785 and the 1,936 tonne iron barque sailing vessel ‘Lade Isabella’ in 1902.

The original lighthouse, situated at the highest point of the island (409 ft) was built in 1757 and comprised the 28 ft high tower with an open grate for a coal fire which served as the light. Within an Act of Parliament in 1756, the Crown was given the authority to levy ‘one penny stirling per tonne’ for every British ship (excluding his majesty’s warships) and ‘two pence stirling per tonne’ from any foreign vessels which passed the lights. Robert Stevenson built the lighthouse complex on the western side of the island which came into operation in 1793, originally with the light generated by 32 oil lamps and silvered glass reflectors. In 1826 this was upgraded with 15 argon lamps and then finally replaced in 1974 with a solar panel powered 107 watt light. The new lighthouse became fully automatic in 1997, at which point the former keepers moved back to their homes in Millport.

In the 1960s, a local entrepreneur called Peter Kaye purchased the property as a private residence. A leasehold interest was granted to The Island of Wee Cumbrae Ltd in 2002, and subsequently the freehold interest in the property was secured by the company. The property is now offered on the open market for sale for the first time for 40 years.

Acknowledgements ‘Guide-Book to the Cumbraes’ by W Lytteil (1886)

LOCATION

Situated in the Firth of Clyde off the Ayrshire Coast, Wee Cumbrae lies immediately to the south of Great Cumbrae, with the Isles of Bute to the west and Arran to the south west. The nearest town on the mainland is Largs, which has an extensive range of local shops and services. There is a main ferry service (Caledonian MacBrayne) operating to Great Cumbrae from Largs. The popular tourist and fishing town of Millport to the southern end of Great Cumbrae is the nearest port to Wee Cumbrae. The position of Wee Cumbrae naturally gives ideal access to the sailing waters off the west coast of Scotland. On the island itself there are potentially a wide range of pursuits available including bird-watching, sea and loch fishing, shooting, walking, quad-biking, and other ‘outward bound’ activities and many features of historical, geological and ecological interest. Nearby on the mainland, there are a number of prestigious golf courses including Turnberry, Royal Troon and Prestwick, all of which have hosted the Open Championship and are regarded as amongst the finest links courses in the world.